On the river
The Baltic watches the Master Shipbroker take on the Thames Waterman in The Port of London Challenge
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A bright, if blustery June evening, and what could be nicer than an evening on the river? Except that, for the crew of the Thames cutter Trinity Tide, it looks rather as if it’s going to be an evening in the river. The cutter was swamped by a bowwave from a passing sightseeing boat, and while the rest of the crews competing in the Port of London challenge are already sculling up and down the start line, Trinity House types are busy bailing out with a pump, a bailer, a bucket, and two saucepans borrowed from the floating restaurant by the start pier.
The Thames cutters, many of them sponsored by Livery companies, are based on the old Thames passenger barges. Though not as minimal as a modern skiff, the cutters are low to the water, and at 34 feet in length and just 4’6” in the beam, they look sleek and fast. In keeping with the original purpose of the barges, they each carry a passenger in addition to six oarsmen and a cox. Trinity’s passenger is still wearing a pin-striped suit, nattily accessorised with a bright red lifejacket, although by now the crew have got enough of the water out that he can climb in dry-shod.
On the support boat, things are rather more relaxed, as well as a great deal drier, and by the time the start is lined up, we are all lined up against the stern rail. The Water Conservators’ boat, the Water Forget-me-not, is off to a clear lead, while several of the other cutters have a rather fraught few minutes as all the boats head for the southern arch of the Embankment Bridge. Typically, the Thames barges race on water between Richmond and Greenwich, so coping with wind and tide are crucial, and position at the beginning can make a lot of difference – though, as the Water Forget-me-not pulls ever further ahead, it obviously wasn’t going to make a lot of difference to the final result in this race.
Many, though not all, of the companies racing today have connections with the maritime business – in addition to Trinity House, the Port of London Authority and the Shipbrokers’ Company have boats entered, as do the Thames Watermen and the Water Conservators. Despite the punishing pace set by the lead boats, the supporters’ boat gradually draws ahead. There is a tricky moment underneath Westminster Bridge where one of the race marshal’s boats cuts across the bows of the leading boat (attempted sabotage? The PLA are marshalling the race, and their own boat is currently lying third).
All the cutters keep well out into the river at this point – not to take advantage of the currents, I am told, but to avoid being shot at by Parliament’s police guard, in case they get mistaken for a terrorist threat. No such compunction about swooping in to take advantage of the calmer water on the bank side of some of Cory’s barges, moored midstream, though.
The Water Forget-me-not, still well ahead of the other boats, comes across the line first, followed by two clusters of boats (including the Master Shipbroker, seventh of eleven), with the cutters having covered the 4.4nm course in just under half an hour. After a leisurely cruise back along the Thames, with the crews on board and the cutters taken under tow by a POL launch, the crews undertake the next challenge of the evening – finding a pub. Harder than it looks, since it turns out most of the pubs round here have a “no sportswear” policy – not even Walkabout allows shorts. And they claim to be an authentic Australian bar? In the end, we find a smoky bar tucked behind the Savoy, where the team settles down to the end-of season post mortem.
Not quite the last outing for the year, though – the Thames cutters will be competing in London’s “water marathon”, the Great River Race, on 8 September, along with nearly 300 other vessels – entrants in the past have included everything from a replica bronze age Greek galley to a Hawaiian outrigger canoe, as well as more conventional rowing boats. The race has become a major spectator event, and it is well worth a visit to one of the Thames’ many waterside pubs to watch – provided you’re not wearing shorts.